Re: disc brakes - caution, another long read with part numbers and prices

[Mike and Linda Andrusiewicz <miclinmopar@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

I'm with Steve on this one. OEM is the best way to go.  I've done at least 5 
brake swaps from front drums to disks on Mopars in the past few years. 
Mostly A bodies, and 1 B body.  I like the slider types with 10.87" rotors. 
I usually just buy parts (master cylinder, hoses, calipers for a 73 Dart). 
All were manual drum/disk.

On early A bodies, you just need to bring over the UCAs with the 
spindles/rotors/bearings/calipers.  The early A drum UCA uses a small BJ, 
the later UCAs (73+) use the large pattern BJ.
I've used the A body spindle AND I've used the F/J/M spindles  (diplomat  or 
5th Ave).  I noticed virtully NO difference in the ride or performance with 
either spindle.  I have also run the calipers in the front and the calipers 
behind the spindles, again, no difference.  Just the brake line routing is 
different.....same hose.   Moving the calipers to the back can buy you more 
room for an aftermarket sway bar.  I like to run Addco 1 1/8" bars. 
cheeeeep and super solid.  The early and later B bodies use the heavier BJ, 
so no UCA swap is required.

Any swap can be done badly.  I've got a 65 Coronet rolling chassis.  The 
previous owner swapped it over to disks, while complete "rebuilding" the 
front end.   I just looked quickly, but someone did a crap job on the swap. 
The rotors are cut too thin, and have re-rusted.  1 stud is loose in 1 
rotor.  I removed the dust caps, and the spindle nut didn't have a retainer 
ORa cotter pin!.....that nut could just walk right off, and there goes the 
wheel!  The whole job is suspect.  Its amazing how much of a F-up some 
people's work is.

My parts usage on a typical swap;

At the parts counter, I will tell them the vehicle is a 1973 Dodge Dart for: 
Rotors/bearings/hoses and master cylinder.  Note: You need to make sure you 
have the proper drum/disk pushrod.
For the calipers, I have used:  73 Dart (4067-4068)  $37 plus $60 core at 
Rock Auto!   or  78 Aspen (4103-4104)  $22 plus $30 core at Rock Auto. 
CAREFUL HERE;  the difference between the two different part number is the 
piston bore.  the 73 Dart uses a 2.6" bore, the later Aspen/diplomat/5th ave 
uses a 2.75" bore.   The 2.75" bore calipers are; more plentiful, cheaper, 
and give more stopping power.   The proportioning valves are available new 
as repops for ~ $90.  worth buying new here or OR use a 73 Dart .  The prop. 
body style changed from a brass one, to a cast iron one in 1975 on the 
darts.  The later F/J/Ms used the cast iron valves too.    It really depends 
on the look you want.

Once I got a set of R/L calipers for a 73 Dart.  I had everything put 
together, and the car pulled to the right when braking.  I rechecked 
EVERYTHING....still pulled.  I eventually found I was sent one 2.6" bore and 
one 2.75" bore caliper!!!!


For more info on prop valves, go to the MP brakes website and read up.  Its 
actually a combination valve.


Mike


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <chymar01@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, December 18, 2009 11:01 PM
Subject: Re: disc brakes - caution, another long read with part numbers and 
prices


> Steve,
>
> I hear ya on this part! Here's a link to my 64 Polara convertible right 
> after I did the swap on it in August.
> http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/21824735
> The pics there show exactly what happens when you use the cheapo Advance 
> Auto brake holddown hardware. I replaced it all with TWO sets of NAPA 
> parts. No more climbing calipers...
>
> Mark
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Steven Charette" <stevec@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Friday, December 18, 2009 6:48:35 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
> Subject: RE: disc brakes - caution, another long read with part numbers 
> and prices
>
>
> "One note from personal experience - get good quality (read that Made in 
> USA)
> caliper hold-down hardware. Only a couple bucks more than imported stuff
> that I have had problems with in the past - consider the prospect of the
> caliper jumping up out of the bracket over bumps. Not cool. "
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --  
> directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and 
> negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended 
> recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect 
> your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content 
> signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
>
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and 
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.