| I normally would replace all wheel cylinders when I start working on a neglected car. However, we have two Chryslers and a Willys that I already did this for before knowing about Dot5. So they are still Dot3. No problems after several years of use. But I plan to change them to Dot5 this summer ala Dyke’s method of flushing and replacing the fluid. Was not going to change all the wheel cylinders again just inspect.
This is just an anecdotal data point, but where I have seen wheel cylinders start going bad, you see some evidence of brake fluid leaking onto inside of tire.
You know what solves all this? Mechanical brakes. 😂Sent from my iPhone On May 29, 2025, at 09:05, John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
yes , the seal lip one day travels over the divot making a passage out , not a slow leak — you do get a few pumps of course but pedal goes to floor . Of course happens in panic stop look at your parts cars , you will see rust depression in bottom of old wheel cylinders Why rebuilds / new rubber cannot be done on many of them Otherwise why would you ever need resleeve stuff ? All cast iron is about equal , but once seal surface is corroded it is junk Id guess 25 % of 300’s have this issue and we do not know about it So open wheel cylinder and look , it is black and white . a restoration has to look in wheel cylinders as a minimum , right ? Cant talk wish and hope. if ok no pits your call— ? new rubber . But all that work I just started replacing them They are not expensive given labor to get it out , refill etc which allows silicone too Past few weeks working on 50 packard , all wheel cylinders had this and master too I drove it 25 years ago , seemed fine . Sat 25 years, this happened Silicone now , good for 50 at least. peace of mind too On May 28, 2025, at 8:32 PM, dave mason <forwardlook300@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
John are you saying that wheel cylinders will fail catastrophically with no prior indication due to rust divot from hygroscopic fluid? I can’t say I have ever seen this occur, only a failure mode of slow leak at cylinder (but have seen catastrophic failure of a brake line). I know a little “weeping” is normal at the wheel cylinders hence the problem with Dot3 fluid.
Sent from my iPhone On May 28, 2025, at 17:38, John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
it seems several here ignore absolute fact that divot forms in bottom of wheel cylinder with glycol in long storage . I will ask all those in club who have seen the rust divots to say hello ? why you had to buy new ones … Ron this exact failure happened in 5-6 mopars I owned . You know I have about 40 over its been 60 years now I would not drive your cars 200 feet unless you want to end in someones trunk in a panic stop ( and total your car) Discussion is crazy On May 28, 2025, at 1:49 PM, 'Ron Waters' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Sorry Dan. But let’s just agree to disagree. As I said, feel free to do whatever works for you. Ron From: dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2025 12:48 PM
To: Ron Waters <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: 'Chrysler 300 Club International' <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: {Chrysler 300} Wheel cylinder replacement advice Ron- I don't intend to debate you, however you are wrong, and being wrong about brakes can be deadly. As to DOT 5, there is no "issue" with aeration in as you write, and I'm afraid folks reading here may be led astray. DOT aeration results from mishandling the bottle before a pour or incomplete or faulty bleeding, end of story. There are far too many of us using DOT 5 for over 25 years to abide by your claim. You may wish to avoid spending your money on an inexpensive wheel cylinders but I don't think it is wise to instruct others to do so. I've said my piece. Do as you please. Danny Plotkin -----Original Message-----
From: "Ron Waters" <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2025 12:09pm
To: dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Cc: "'Chrysler 300 Club International'" <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: {Chrysler 300} Wheel cylinder replacement advice Danny – As I stated, whenever a wheel cylinder is replaced, the entire system should be flushed. There is no need to replace every wheel cylinder because one is defective. The idea of ‘water laced’ brake fluid is a misnomer. Moisture gets into the lines. That moisture will either be absorbed by the fluid (DOT 3 or 4) or remain between the fluid and the inner wall (DOT 5) or gather at the connection (also DOT 5). Flushing out the fluid every few years is how it should be done. I stick with DOT 3 or 4, since I don’t want to deal with a soft pedal as a result of aeration of the fluid, which is an issue with DOT 5. But feel free to do whatever works best for you. Ron From: dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2025 10:53 AM
To: Ron Waters <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: 'Chrysler 300 Club International' <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: {Chrysler 300} Wheel cylinder replacement advice Ron- The Ain't broke don't fix it maxim should not apply to hydraulic brakes, one of the few automotive systems whose condition is completely concealed and for which a driver is oblivious until its too late. The risk is exponentially increased by a single circuit system which provides no advance notice of the impending doom ahead. Its all one system. water laced DOT 3 in one cylinder is in all cylinders including the master cylinder. Never look to save money on brakes. Danny Plotkin -----Original Message-----
From: "'Ron Waters' via Chrysler 300 Club International" <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2025 4:29pm
To: "'Chrysler 300 Club International'" <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: {Chrysler 300} Wheel cylinder replacement advice Kurt – If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Just replace the leaking cylinder. Also, DOT 3 is indeed hygroscopic. That’s a good thing. Leave it as DOT 3, unless you are planning to replace the *entire* brake system. You’ll be doing a flush when you replace this leaking cylinder. Going forward, just change your fluid every three or four years and you’ll be fine. Ron From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx On Behalf Of Kurt Brueske
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2025 4:15 PM
To: Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: {Chrysler 300} Wheel cylinder replacement advice I could use some advice on whether I should replace all four wheel cylinders or just the cylinder that is leaking? Full disclosure this is for my ‘64 Imperial Crown Coupe, not a letter car, but figured the advice would also be beneficial to letter car owners as well. I discovered the driver side rear is leaking and set out to replace ALL the wheel cylinders as a “preventive measure.” When I checked the condition of the other three cylinders, they all appear fine but I suspect they’re old - “Wagner Lockheed - Made in USA” is stamped on the housing and we all know how few automotive parts are made domestically these days. Question: should I “leave well enough alone” or is there some benefit to replacing all four at once besides knowing they’re new? I suspect hygroscopic DOT 3 brake fluid was previously used and the car sat for the better part of 20 years…some clumpy viscous residue in the bottom of the master cylinder. I was thinking replacing all four wheel cylinders would aid in a brake fresh and upgrade to DOT 5. I appreciate the feedback and help. --
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