IML: Starting my 64 Imperial
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IML: Starting my 64 Imperial
- From: Joe Strickland <jwstrick426@xxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 14:02:30 -0600
As some others have commented about trying to "jump" a bad battery, I
also have experienced the problem you are having on various Chrysler
products over the years. If you have already tried jumping the existing
battery with a known good one from another vehicle, and you can turn the
engine over using a wrench on the harmonic balancer bolt, the next step
would be to try removing the existing battery from the start circuit
(disconnect the leads from the battery). Then cover the old battery
with some suitable pieces of cardboard or an old quilt folded many times
to provide a cushion to prevent the battery leads from touching the old
battery or the car frame or body. Then place a battery from one of your
cars on the fender with suitable cushion underneath to prevent
scratching the finish. Connect the car's battery leads to the
substitute battery if they will reach, while MAKING SURE THEY CANNOT
SHORT TOGETHER. If they don't reach, use the shortest battery jumper
cables you have. MAKE SURE THE JUMPER CABLE ENDS CANNOT SHORT
TOGETHER! If the car still will not start and acts exactly as before,
then troubleshoot the START CIRCUITS, cables and their end connections.
Don't forget that a bad ground from the engine to the battery negative
terminal and body can cause a no start condition. Some cars have a
large braided cable that grounds the engine block to the firewall and
others ground the engine back directly to the battery negative
terminal. Those cars have a smaller 8-12AWG wire that goes from the
battery negative terminal to the body close to the battery.
As Paul suggested, try to eliminate items that could be the problem
without having to buy new parts. If one of your battery cables is
measuring 1 ohm instead of 0.1 ohms that could be an indication of
corrosion inside the crimped cable end/s. Recheck that cable's
resistance. If it still measures 1 ohm after making sure your ohm-meter
leads are first "zeroed" out, then the cable sounds very suspicious.
[Short the ohm meter leads together first and adjust the meter's Zero
knob until the meter reads zero before you touch the meter leads to the
item under test]. Someone mentioned having a cable that had been
cleaned and was shiny externally, but green with corrosion on the inside
of the terminal end/s.
I looked at the electrical diagram for the engine compartment on your
'64 Imperial. It has a starter relay (usually mounted on the fender well
near the battery). It has one large wire connected to a large post (the
main battery lead going to/from the starter). It has three other
terminals on it: one labeled "B"; One labeled "ST"; one labeled "GRD".
The terminal labeled "ST" gets 12 volts applied when the key is turned
to the start position and the car is in Park or Neutral. The "GRD"
terminal is the ground side of the relay coil and must have a good
ground connection to the frame ground of the car. When the key is
turned to the start position and everything else is working correctly,
then the starter relay applies +12 volts to the "B" terminal which is
connected to the + side of the starter solenoid. You can bypass the
ignition key start circuit by jumping the large battery terminal at the
starter relay to the "B" terminal right at the relay. Either clip leads
attached to about a no. 12 AWG stranded wire or just use a screwdriver
tip to jumper the two terminals together. If the starter can turn the
engine over it will do so [again provided that the battery ground is
well grounded to the starter ground]. The only thing left would be bad
or pitted contacts inside the starter solenoid which is part of the
starter assembly. You would have to remove the starter assembly and
take the solenoid apart to inspect the contacts there. That is a job
probably best left to professional starter rebuilding personnel.
Joe
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