Re: IML: 1960 Imperial Brake Pedal Height/ Push Rod Adjustment/ Brake Light Issues

[PAUL WENTINK <randalpark@xxxxxxx>]

I ran into this exact same thing on another car I own ('61 FOMOCO) on 
which the previous owner had fitted a dual reservoir master cylinder 
for safety. The incorrect push rod adjustment caused the front brakes 
to heat up. The first clue was that when the car had been run, the 
brake lights wouldn't go off until the brakes cooled down. It has a 
hydraulic brake light switch, just like a '60 Imperial. The brake light 
switch was routed off the line to the front brakes, which overheated 
once the car had been driven. To correct the problem, the original push 
rod between the booster and the M/C had to be adjusted slightly shorter 
in order to mate up correctly with the non-stock, non-OEM dual 
reservoir M/C. This should have been done during the conversion, but 
not all shops/owners are as thorough in their work as they should be.

Same car had incorrectly numbered dual filament bulbs forced into the 
sockets front parking and rear tail. These did not line up properly 
with the contacts (of course), and caused odd lighting problems 
throughout the vehicle. The previous owner claimed the typical 
"electrical gremlins theory" while it was actually due to incorrect and 
improperly installed parts.

Overheating of the front brakes caused the front tires to thump, which 
led same owner to conclude that radial tires installed on the car were 
a big mistake.

Having non-qualified mechanics work on the car, and/or jumping to 
conclusions without thorough research is a fast way to spend lots of 
money and end up with a poor performing vehicle.

Paul W.


-----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Simpson <kiwiimp65@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 1:38 am
Subject: Re: IML: 1960 Imperial Brake Pedal Height


My experience of monkeying with the length of the booster pushrod gave 
me brakes that would not release properly. If anyone does try this it 
would be a good idea to jack the car up afterwards and check the brakes 
are not binding. From memory it required only a very small adjustment 
to produce that result. Geoff Simpson 
 
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