Re: IML: Removing/Replacing A-arm Bushings

["Rob van der Es" <R.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Thanks a lot for your very informative answer!
It is really a great help if or when I have to remove/replace those lower 
control arm bushings!

But I still have hope left that it will only be a matter of adjusting the 
bolts at the anchor of the T-bar!

Unfortunately I wasn't able to check today due to bad weather.
Hopefully it will be dry tomorrow, so I can jack up the car and put it on 
axle stands.

Btw, I have studied the 60 FSM thoroughly today, and now I know that I don't 
have to worry about he anchors. They are only holding the T-bars in position 
and have no thread that can be damaged or stripped by old rusted adjusting 
bolts.

I might only be in for new bolts and swivels!

Thanks again,

Robert
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joe Strickland" <jwstrick426@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "Imperial Mail List" <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2007 2:26 PM
Subject: IML: Removing/Replacing A-arm Bushings


> I was able to buy the exact busing remove/install tools (C-3710 or C-3669 
> with adapter SP-3233A) from Miller Special Tools Co. years ago. They are 
> still in business and will sell directly to the end user/restorer etc.  The 
> tools they supply are made of hardened steel and are much better to use 
> than steel flat washers.  Flat washers are normally rather soft steel and 
> will change shape when exposed to the forces required to remove and install 
> the bushings in an Imperial.  The tools mentioned in the service manual are 
> used on a good number of year models of Imperials and also Dodge vans and 
> trucks.
>
> A note on removing the A-arm bolts:  Be sure to watch the ends of the 
> bolts!  If you turn the wrong end of the bolt you may damage the front end 
> adjustment arrangement.  The end of the bolt which has the hex head has an 
> eccentric washer (called a cam in the service manual) welded to the bolt 
> head.  The shaft of the bolt has a flat side and on the end with the free 
> nut there is another eccentric washer which has a flat side that fits 
> against a flat side of the bolt shaft.  Care must be exercised to make 
> sure that you do not allow the bolt head to turn while removing the free 
> nut on the far end!  If the bolt head is allowed to turn too much it will 
> damage the dished in adjustment washer that is welded to the A-arm frame 
> extension.
>
> The dished in washer welded to the frame in combination with the eccentric 
> washers on the A-arm bolt is what provides the ability to adjust camber. 
> It provides a fixed center point that the adjustment bolt/cam can push 
> against when a front end alignment is done.
>
> If you are having a mechanic do the work, be sure he understands the 
> special construction of the bolts and cam washers and their purpose so 
> that he won't damage your car's frame.
>
> Joe S.
>
>
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