If the lights don't work, there are other things that go wrong than that
"box". A short in one lamp will keep the whole system from lighting up. An
open circuit in one lamp will allow the others to light even while that
one does not. Though rare, I have heard of the head light switch causing
trouble.
Usually, if the "box" goes bad, the lights will come on initially, and
then slowly/quickly dim out. A shorted lamp will keep them from coming on
at all, unless the short is one of the meter needles. Yes, they are
individual lamps themselves. Sometimes when one of them goes bad, the
lights will come on until the needle moves to a certain spot, then all the
lights will go out. The lamps have to be tested one at a time to find a
short, with the system ON. All the wires are white and the connectors are
red.
If you plan to keep this car, you should read the FSM, collect a few spare
parts, obtain a supply of conductive glue, and have a spare "known to be
good" transformer on hand at all times. It will greatly simplify trouble
shooting and repair if you do.
Paul W.
-----Original Message-----
From: samiko3@xxxxxxxxx
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Tue, 13 Mar 2007 4:38 AM
Subject: Re: IML: Electroluminescent Dash Lighting
I tought that it should be 200-250v?
,Sami
110v is the STANDARD US electrical output, so probably the unit is
ok, > but check input and output rates, then check the dash regulater. CJ.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: /Sami <samiko3@xxxxxxxxx>/
Reply-To: /mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx/
To: /mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx/
Subject: /IML: Electroluminescent Dash Lighting/
Date: /Tue, 13 Mar 2007 11:47:54 +0200/
>Hi all!
>
>I'm asking about this dash lighting. I take that "box" out and test
>it on the table. I got only 110AC out, so can someone tell me what
>is broken?
>
>Thanks a lot!
>,Sami, Finland
>
>
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