Re: IML: Valve Cover Gaskets

[aeyn <mr85000@xxxxxxxxx>]

That was the one I used on my S/W (I remembered that it was
orange, but I could not remember the material.) and I wish that I
could find so more.  They were great and VERY resiliant.

Æyn


--- sosmi@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:

> At one time, Chrysler offered in the High Performance parts, an
> orange silicone type valve cover gasket. It was a Hi-Temp type,
> and reusable. I used them on our solid lifter race motors, as
> well as other B-RB engines.It worked better then any other
> gasket we tried . I'm looking for the PN. and will post it, if
> I can find it.Ya'll have a nice day, Dave.
> 
> -------------- Original message -------------- 
> From: randalpark@xxxxxxx 
> 
> > I totally agree with this approach. It has worked well for me
> for over 
> > 35 years. 
> > 
> > Paul W. 
> > 
> > -----Original Message----- 
> > From: fljoslin@xxxxxxxx 
> > To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
> > Sent: Tue, 13 Feb 2007 9:18 AM 
> > Subject: Re: IML: Fuselage cars 
> > 
> > The method you describe is what I have used for valve covers,
> 
> > transmission pans and rear end covers. 
> > 
> > Clean both mating surfaces well and use a solvent (brake
> cleaner) as 
> > the final step. Attach the gasket to the "non car" surface
> using a good 
> > silicone sealer. Do not use any sealer on the "car" surface.
> Attach the 
> > cover and torque down. I usually use a 1/4" drive socket for
> these type 
> > of torque applications and go around about ten times at 1/4
> turn each 
> > until it feels good. The small ratchet reduces the amount of
> torque 
> > that you can apply. I know this is not very "scientific" but
> I have 
> > changed a few trans, rear end and valve covers like this and
> never had 
> > one leak. A good trick to remove any goop from the mating
> surfaces is 
> > to use a wire brush. You need to be very careful if it is on
> the "car 
> > side" so that you don't get anything into delicate areas.
> However, if 
> > you have the valve cover, trans pan, rear end cover off, a
> wire brush 
> > in a drill will make very quick work of any junk and not
> damage 
> > anything. Just make sure you clean it well afterwards. If you
> do follow 
> > the process of not applying any sealer to the car side of the
> gasket, 
> > there should be nothing on the other surface to remove
> anyway. 
> > 
> > I have seen many shops going to the no gasket, silicone
> sealer only 
> > approach. I am not really sure why. I have seen these fail
> (leak) and 
> > it makes it a real B***H to remove. Not only is the cover
> stuck on such 
> > that you risk warping it to remove it, but the bolts can get
> all gummed 
> > up and very difficult to remove and you have goo all over the
> car side 
> > of the surfaces which is tough to remove. 
> > 
> > 
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: randalpark@xxxxxxx 
> > To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
> > Subject: Re: IML: Fuselage cars 
> > Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2007 10:41:21 -0500 
> > 
> > 
> > I find that it works best to glue them (good 
> > quality rubber ones) in place in the valve 
> > cover, before installing the valve cover on the 
> > head. Occasionally, I have to tighten the bolts 
> > a little bit, but I haven't had any other 
> > problems. I have used this method several 
> > times. I also find it easier to deal with 
> > cleaning the valve cover rather than having the 
> > scrape the head. Although the surface must be 
> > cleaned, the less work I have to do on the 
> > head, hanging over the fender, the easier it is 
> > on my back. 
> > 
> > Paul W. 
> > 
> > -----Original Message----- 
> > From: mr85000@xxxxxxxxx 
> > To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
> > Sent: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 8:42 PM 
> > Subject: Re: IML: Fuselage cars 
> > 
> > Have you tried to get rubber cover gaskets? I purchased some
> in 
> > 1980 for my 1972 Custom Suburban S/W with a 400 in it. 
> > 
> > I am going to see if I can get some for my 75's 440. RockAuto
> has 
> > them FEL-PRO Part # VS50145R Rubber coated fiber gaskets
> $14.40 
> > 
> > 
> > Ã?â? yn & Patrick 
> > 
> > --- Brad Weikert wrote: 
> > 
> > > 
> > > On Feb 12, 2007, at 6:30 PM, Kenyon Wills wrote: 
> > > 
> > > > Aside from a valve cover that refuses to seal despite 
> > > > four tries... 
> > > 
> > > If you haven't tried it already you might want to try a
> Fel-Pro 
> > > blue 
> > > stripe cork gasket and install it with NO sealant. That's
> how 
> > > I 
> > > finally stopped the valve covers from leaking on my '73
> 440. 
> > > As the 
> > > oil soaks into the cork the cork will expand and
> (hopefully) 
> > > seal the 
> > > leaks. 
> > > 
> > > Brad 
> > > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
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> > 
> > Fred Joslin 
> >
>
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