Re: IML: Coil

["Chris Strohmeyer" <chrisstroh@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Thx Steve, Then why the 10v at idle and 12v at higher rpm on the plus side 
of the coil?  This was done with jumpers to eliminate the wiring harness.
Would you be concerned about thes voltages?

Chris
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Steve B." <Imperial59@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 11:09 AM
Subject: Re: IML: Coil


> Chris Strohmeyer wrote:
> > Can the coil be drawing more than 6-8volts and instead draw 10-12v if it 
> > were defective?  I tried an old coil I had here and got the same voltage 
> > at the coil. Could they both be bad? How common is it that a coil would 
> > be bad?
>
> You are kind of confusing terms here.  Nothing "draws" voltage.  Think of 
> voltage like water pressure.  It is the push behind the electricity.  The 
> higher the voltage the harder the push.  Very simplistic view but it might 
> help.
> In 20 something years of playing with old cars I have had exactly one bad 
> coil.  I do replace them with new on any old car I pick up more as 
> preventative maintenance than anything.  I also keep a spare ballast 
> resistor in the glove box of every Chrysler product I have ever owned.  If 
> you swapped the ballast resistor and coil and still have the exact same 
> issue then I would say you have pretty much eliminated them as a culprit. 
> Could still be ignition related though... bad points or a condenser that 
> is breaking down could cause this problem.
>                  Steve B.
>
>
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