Re: IML: 63 cylinder head removal

[aeyn <mr85000@xxxxxxxxx>]

Plus also, (correct me if I am incorrect), isn't the lead
additives being discontinued?  Go with the hardened valve seats.

Æyn

--- sosmi@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:

> Tom, no question, the heads should have hardened valve seats
> installed, while doing the valve job. Just make certain, to
> set-up the valve stem heights to original specs, otherwise you
> could have problems with valve clearance, or push-rods.Your
> doing it RIGHT. Ya'll have a nice day , Dave.
> 
> -------------- Original message -------------- 
> From: tom higgins <thomash85715@xxxxxxxxx> 
> Dave:  I have no intention of swapping these out; several local
> shops have assured me they will treat them with care and make
> them like new.  The reason for removal is that valves are
> deteriorating by the minute with the two year old fuel working
> its way through the system.  I found out too late what the
> folly of leaving it in there has been.  While heads are in
> machine shop, fuel tank will be taking a deep bath too!  The
> source of confusion for me is whether to have my new heads set
> up on purpose for modern unleaded fuel or make them "original"
> and use lead additives.  What is the collective view on that? 
> Thank you.  --TH 
> 
> sosmi@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote: 
> Tom, I might have missed the reason for head removal, but the
> heads on your engine ,should be retained at all reasonable
> cost. Late model heads are good, but there are several things
> that change. the 452 castings that were referenced earlier,or
> any head 65 up, would change several things.These would be as
> follows: Bolt-on rocker stands are gone,this could change
> pushrod lengths, the valve cover changes to 6 bolt, the
> combustion chamber is larger, which will reduce compression
> ratio,and valve size would increase, which would be a detriment
> to low speed torque. I would stick with what you have.Ya'll
> have a nice day , Dave..
> 
> -------------- Original message -------------- 
> From: FltSgt@xxxxxxx 
> 
> > Hola Tom 
> > 
> > Even if you did have the Auto-Pilot, it would not effect the
> time. 
> > 
> > It takes less time to remove the passenger's side head than
> the hard one to 
> > get at one the driver's side. 
> > 
> > With either head you need to remove the battery connection
> first. Then the 
> > intake, the effected exh manifold, the spark plug wires from
> the plug ends and 
> > lay them else where in the engine compartment, the full A/C
> bracket assembly 
> > and lay the compressor with hoses to one side, the effected
> valve cover and 
> > rocker assembly. 
> > 
> > Now you can pull out the push rods and get to the task of the
> head. Both 
> > heads have a bolt on the hidden rear side with sumthin on it.
> By myself and 
> > common Craftsman tools this is a 4 hour task. If my MoPar
> neighbor from across 
> > the street helps me, its a 5 1/2 hour task. If my brother
> In-Law helps me its a 
> > 2 1/2 task. 
> > 
> > There is temptation to ream out the valve seats and to
> install a set of 
> > valves that have a larger head diam. Do not listen to the GTX
> or Road Runner 
> > Devil, for your Imperial weighs more. 
> > 
> > If by chance you have a set of 1972 - 1978 400/440 heads with
> the last 
> > casting numbers of 452, use them. 
> > 
> > Uncle Rodger & Aunt Gabby 
> > Colo Spgs 
> > 
> > 
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> 
> 
> 
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