RE: IML: Breaking Free '56 Rear Hubs

[Kenyon Wills <imperialist1960@xxxxxxxxx>]

this comes up periodically.

If you are not using a pneumatic impact wrench BEFORE
trying the heat thing, you are probably missing the
key component here.

The pneumatic impact wrench strikes rapid, repeated
torsional blows on the threaded puller and I have
removed drums from about 15 cars without ever having
it take more than 1 minute of applied pressure, often
less than 15 seconds.  

I also strongly beleive in greasing the threads on the
puller so that you are not  fighting friction on the
tool as much, but that's just me.  I managed a bicycle
 shop for years, and greasing any thread yeilds more
twist for the same effort.

If you do not have a compressor, you can probably rent
one from the local U-Rent-Em place.  Better yet, get
the best kind to have, someone else's.  I run mine at
approx 110 lbs pressure.  

Tool will "want" you to use a hardened socket,
although you may be able to get away with a regular
one.  Hardened sockets are normally a very dark,
almost black color.  Beware of the ebay items that are
 too cheap to be real tools.

The pnuematic air wrench is image #6 on the bottom of
this page:

http://imperialclub.com/Yr/1960/Kenyon/Page09.htm

Images 9 & 10 are the other two things that you'll
need.  The puller that I have is the "heavy duty" one.


Someone else suggested loosening the nut that holds
the drum on and driving around on it a little in the
neighborhood.  May be an old-wives tale, and if
something goes wrong, just remember that it wasn't my
idea.  I think the air gun is THE way to go.

MAKE CERTAIN >>NOT<< to lubericate the spindle or the
drum upon reassembly.  They should go together dry.

=====
Kenyon Wills
 
 






















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