Re: IML: Oil usage theories

["Rob van der Es" <r.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

HI Dan,

Just another thought crossed my mind, since your car has only recently been 
pulled out of the grave (your own words :), could it be that your engine 
suffers from sticking piston rings?

In my opinion 90-125 isn't that high, allthough it should be good enough.
To free the piston rings you can add some Marvell's Mystery Oil to the 
engine oil (after the dipstick reading learns that you are on the Low mark 
again..). Some people have had also good results with adding ATF to both the 
oil and fuel!

Just my 2 cents :)

Robert
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <therichardsonfamily@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 9:30 PM
Subject: Re: IML: Oil usage theories


Thanks Fred and Mark and Dave and Michael:

I will try the downhill deceleration test, and also another compression test 
to see where I'm at after 3000 miles from resurrection.  If I can help 
lessen oil consumption with valve seals, I may just have the heads 
completely redone - then I would have that part completed for a few hundred 
bucks.  On the other hand, I don't want to speed up the rebuild timetable 
either.  Is that really a likely possibility?  Is it safer to just do seals 
in-vehicle?

I would think if I had bad rings, I would see oil fouling on the plugs - not 
just wet threads.  Bad rings wouldn't get me 90 - 125 psi compression 
either, I assume.  Oil fill is correct - 4 qts. with out filter.  Intake 
valley pan is another thought.

I really haven't let it get more than 1 quart low - I'd rather just keep it 
full for now.  This poor girl has only recently been pulled out of the 
grave, and I still need to keep her hooked up to life support.  Ultimately, 
a engine rebuild will be needed, but I want to continue to enjoy her until I 
can afford to do a complete job.  It's all about the enjoyment, right?

Thanks for the info.

Dan Richardson
300L Family Heirloom


-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Frederick Joslin" <fljoslin@xxxxxxxx>
> Hi Dan:You can change the valve seals without pulling the heads if you
> really need to.However, if you do pull the heads you can rebuild the
> heads, install teflon seals and get a good look at the cylinder walls
> Have you tried a more viscous oil? Things in an engine can change quickly
> so you should really do a leak down test or at least another compression
> test to see where you stand now. Good luck.
>
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: therichardsonfamily@xxxxxxxxxxx

>   Hello everyone (& Dave):
>
>   I have excessive oil usage on my '67 Imperial
>   engine. Not much of a surprise with 150K+, and
>   sitting for a decade. 1 quart/150 miles at 70
>   mph, & 1 quart/300 miles at 45ish avg. mph
>   around town. I know the correct answer is to
>   do a complete rebuild. Can't quite pop for
>   that right now, as there are too many other
>   priorities for my next $3000.
>
>   Compression check months ago was OK, no blue
>   smoke at cold start up (even if sitting for
>   days), no blue smoke at hard acceleration, or
>   after idle - just no blue smoke at all. Idles
>   and drives quite well, gets about 11 mpg.
>   Pulled the plugs yesterday after 3000 miles,
>   and they were nicely tanned/greyed, clean
>   everywhere except wet oil on the threads.
>
>   Dave had mentioned earlier that big block
>   Mopars have a tendency to need valve seals. If
>   that is what's indicated by the above evidence,
>   I could probably find the resources to pull the
>   heads.
>
>   Any expert (or otherwise) theories and thoughts would be most
>   welcomed.
>
>   Dan Richardson
>   300L Family Heirloom



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