Re: IML: 60 Dome light stays on

[randalpark@xxxxxxx]

The insulation on the wiring in the door jambs in these years of 
Imperial does a pretty good job of coming off without the help of mice. 
The wires have plastic insulation which is very brittle. It seems to 
have even given trouble when the cars were relatively new. Add that to 
the opening and closing of the door, plus 40 more years, and I think 
damaged insulation is a pretty good guess.

Paul W.


-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Strickland <jwstrick426@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: Imperial Mail List <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sun, 3 Jun 2007 10:48 am
Subject: IML: 60 Dome light stays on


> However, I am still convinced that I have a complete other situation 
on >my 
> hand here! 
> You see, if I push the rear back door switches in by hand, my dome 
> light 
> shines on at half power or so!!? 
> So, I still go for Paul's theory that a 'hot" wire from the window 
> motor or 
> power lock might be causing this problem. 
 
Robert; 
 
You could be right in that if the lead into the center pillar was 
shorted against another lead like the window lift motor or a door lock 
solenoid it would effectively place two 12 volt loads in series with 
one another which could cause the lamp to glow at partial brightness. 
Since a lamp draws much less current than a motor or solenoid the 
voltage at the second device would not have enough current capability 
to activate it. 
 
One possibility I thought of was that it could be that mice got into 
the car and managed to chew some insulation off of some wires. 
 
Also someone might have installed some sort of accessory item in the 
car and tied it to the lamp lead circuit instead of the accessory post 
of the ignition switch or fuse box. It could be something like a radio 
or CD player etc. that might have been added. 
 
In the lamp circuits the pink wire is the +12 VDC feed from the battery 
and the yellow wire is the one that gets grounded to turn the lamp on. 
 
The only time the wires going to the electric window lifts or the door 
lock solenoids get power applied to them is when the device is 
activated by the appropriate switch. The rest of the time the wires on 
the load side of the switches have no voltage present on them. 
 
Someone else may also have tried to make a repair in the past and did a 
poor job of it. Look for spliced wires inside the door(s) as well as 
frayed or missing insulation. Damaged wires could even be the result of 
a previous accident and subsequent repairs. 
 
Don't give up! You will be pleased with your efforts when you find the 
cause. 
 
Joe Strickland 
 
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