OK,
I'm sure you are going to get better answers with more detail than mine but here is a start:
You need to get #1 piston coming up on the compression stroke, you can check the valves, use a finger to tell when it is on compression or I have a screw-in compression gauge, I use it to tell when #1 is coming up.
You can buy or make a piston stop. With it you can roll the engine forwards and backwards, mark where it hits the stop, in the middle will be Top Dead Center.
When I have TDC and I am on compression I rotate back about a quarter of a turn and come back up to 10 Degrees on the harmonic balancer aligned with the TDC I found.
I set the distributor to #1 and rotate the distributor until the points just open for a point distributor.
It should fire.
I know I didn't provide enough details, I'm sure you will get more answers. This is the way I started the engine in my attachment. I used a point distributor, easy to tell when the points open with a meter or test light.
Dennis C.
On Tuesday, November 11, 2014 10:08:01 PM UTC-7, Bubba wrote:
I am finally trying to get my 318 poly engine started after a full rebuild,
and am not sure that I have the distributor dialed in close enough to get it
firing. Definitely getting fuel and spark, as it has backfired through the
carb and out the exhaust manifold (no exhaust on it right now, as the old
exhaust was toast).
Nice flame through the carb, and out the exhaust manifold, but no sign that
it is going to start. Tried to see if I could use the timing light, but
could not find the timing tab (maybe they left it off or lost it?). I can
see the timing mark on the damper, but without a timing tab, doesn't seem to be
much help. Tried moving the distributor, but not really successful.
Might be 180 degrees out?
Engine is a newly-rebuilt 318 poly, new 4bbl Edelbrock Performance carb,
factory iron intake/exhaust.
Thoughts? Really wanted to get it going before the cold came through,
but it's rolling into Ohio tonight.
Larry (Akron)