
RE: disc brakes - caution, another long read with part numbers and price
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RE: disc brakes - caution, another long read with part numbers and prices
- From: Doug Daniel <dougdaniel50@xxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2009 11:27:33 -0800 (PST)
ollie is right but i am not good following i just get out and go and like knowing i can stop
--- On Sat, 12/19/09, Steven Charette <stevec@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> From: Steven Charette <stevec@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: RE: disc brakes - caution, another long read with part numbers and prices
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Date: Saturday, December 19, 2009, 2:16 PM
>
> Doug,
> Rick Ehrenberg's article
> (http://www.moparaction.com/Tech/archive/disc-main.html)
> states that there
> are a few '72 and '73 C-Bodies with parts that should fit
> your '65. Check
> out the article above and start your search :)
>
> Ollie made a good point though, cars
> stopped just fine for decades
> with properly maintained drum brakes. You simply need
> to increase your
> following distance, as many cars you follow can stop faster
> and more times
> without fading than you can.
>
> SC
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Doug Daniel [mailto:dougdaniel50@xxxxxxxxx]
>
> Sent: Saturday, December 19, 2009 2:02 PM
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: disc brakes - caution, another long read with
> part numbers and
> prices
>
> will all this work on a C body ? 65 dodge monaco
>
> --- On Sat, 12/19/09, Mike and Linda Andrusiewicz
> <miclinmopar@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> wrote:
>
> > From: Mike and Linda Andrusiewicz <miclinmopar@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Subject: Re: disc brakes - caution, another long read
> with part
> > numbers and prices
> > To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> > Date: Saturday, December 19, 2009, 11:18 AM
> >
> > I'm with Steve on this one. OEM is the best way to
> go. I've done at
> > least 5 brake swaps from front drums to disks on
> Mopars in the past
> > few years. Mostly A bodies, and 1 B body. I like the
> slider types
> > with 10.87"
> > rotors. I usually just buy parts (master cylinder,
> hoses, calipers for
> > a 73 Dart). All were manual drum/disk.
> >
> > On early A bodies, you just need to bring over the
> UCAs with the
> > spindles/rotors/bearings/calipers. The early A drum
> UCA uses a small
> > BJ, the later UCAs (73+) use the large pattern BJ.
> > I've used the A body spindle AND I've used the F/J/M
> spindles
> > (diplomat or 5th Ave). I noticed virtully NO
> difference in the ride
> > or performance with either spindle. I have also run
> the calipers in
> > the front and the calipers behind the spindles, again,
> no difference.
> > Just the brake line routing is different.....same
> hose. Moving the
> > calipers to the back can buy you more room for an
> aftermarket sway
> > bar. I like to run Addco 1 1/8" bars.
> > cheeeeep and super solid. The early and later B
> bodies use the
> > heavier BJ, so no UCA swap is required.
> >
> > Any swap can be done badly. I've got a 65 Coronet
> rolling chassis.
> > The previous owner swapped it over to disks, while
> complete
> > "rebuilding" the front end. I just looked
> quickly, but someone did a
> > crap job on the swap. The rotors are cut too thin, and
> have re-rusted.
> > 1 stud is loose in 1 rotor. I removed the dust caps,
> and the spindle
> > nut didn't have a retainer ORa cotter pin!.....that
> nut could just
> > walk right off, and there goes the wheel! The whole
> job is suspect.
> > Its amazing how much of a F-up some people's work is.
> >
> > My parts usage on a typical swap;
> >
> > At the parts counter, I will tell them the vehicle is
> a
> > 1973 Dodge Dart for: Rotors/bearings/hoses and master
> cylinder. Note:
> > You need to make sure you have the proper drum/disk
> pushrod.
> > For the calipers, I have used: 73 Dart
> > (4067-4068) $37 plus $60 core at Rock
> Auto! or 78 Aspen
> > (4103-4104)
> > $22 plus $30 core at Rock Auto. CAREFUL HERE; the
> difference between
> > the two different part number is the piston bore.
> the 73 Dart uses a
> > 2.6" bore, the later Aspen/diplomat/5th ave uses a
> 2.75"
> > bore. The 2.75" bore calipers are; more
> plentiful, cheaper, and give
> > more stopping power. The proportioning valves are
> available new as
> > repops for ~ $90. worth buying new here or OR use a
> 73 Dart . The
> > prop. body style changed from a brass one, to a cast
> iron one in 1975
> > on the darts. The later F/J/Ms used the cast iron
> valves too. It
> > really depends on the look you want.
> >
> > Once I got a set of R/L calipers for a 73 Dart. I
> had everything put
> > together, and the car pulled to the right when
> braking. I rechecked
> > EVERYTHING....still pulled. I eventually found I was
> sent one 2.6"
> > bore and one 2.75" bore caliper!!!!
> >
> >
> > For more info on prop valves, go to the MP brakes
> website and read up.
> > Its actually a combination valve.
> >
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- From: <chymar01@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> > To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> > Sent: Friday, December 18, 2009 11:01 PM
> > Subject: Re: disc brakes - caution, another long read
> with part
> > numbers and prices
> >
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > Steve,
> > >
> > > I hear ya on this part! Here's a link to my 64
> Polara
> > convertible right after I did the swap on it in
> August.
> > > http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/21824735
> > > The pics there show exactly what happens when you
> use
> > the cheapo Advance Auto brake holddown hardware. I
> replaced it all
> > with TWO sets of NAPA parts. No more climbing
> calipers...
> > >
> > > Mark
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steven
> Charette"
> > <stevec@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > > To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> > > Sent: Friday, December 18, 2009 6:48:35 PM GMT
> -05:00
> > US/Canada Eastern
> > > Subject: RE: disc brakes - caution, another long
> read
> > with part numbers and prices
> > >
> > >
> > > "One note from personal experience - get good
> quality
> > (read that Made in USA)
> > > caliper hold-down hardware. Only a couple bucks
> more
> > than imported stuff
> > > that I have had problems with in the past -
> consider
> > the prospect of the
> > > caliper jumping up out of the bracket over bumps.
> Not
> > cool. "
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
> > >
> > >
> > > ----
> > > Please address private mail -- mail of interest
> to
> > only one person -- directly to that person. I.e.,
> send parts/car
> > transactions and negotiations as well as other
> personal messages only
> > to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public
> address. This
> > practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total
> volume of mail
> > and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.
> Thanks!
> > >
> > > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion
> Guidelines:
> > > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > ----
> > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to
> only one person --
> > directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car
> transactions and
> > negotiations as well as other personal messages only
> to the intended
> > recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This
> practice will
> > protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail
> and fine tune
> > the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
> >
> > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
>
> > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one
> person -- directly to that person. I.e., send
> parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other
> personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the
> Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your
> privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the
> content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
>
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
>
>
>
>
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