Re: new electronic distributor problems

[Schuyler Wrobel <sky62@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

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does the coil need to be up graded to a 12 volt coil if you
bypass the ballast, or will the stock coil be ok? I thought I
heard that the old coil was a 6 volt? maybe I read that wrong
the last time this topic came up? are all coils created equal,
as far as handling the voltage going in to the coil is concerned?
and if not, what would be the best coil to use when the ballast  
resistor is
by passed or eliminated? part #'s is there a way to tell if the coil  
is 12V or 6V?

also there are 4 wires total, 2 on each side connected to my ballast  
resistor,
ie. one piggybacked on the other, on each side of the coil. do I just  
spice all 4
together and pitch the resistor? or what? is there a wiring diagram  
that shows
how to complete the bypass? seems like I always get confused when this
topic comes up and it always sounds so simple at first.

thanks for any clarification

Schuyler
62 Dodge Dart 440 wagon w/ Poly 318
 <http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-wrobel62.html>
FYI - I Do the Decal designs for the Poly head 318 and more! email me  
with your needs -
 <sky62@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>



On Jul 20, 2009, at 6:57 AM, Herb wrote:

> Our cars are set up for Old School ignition!!  The ballast resistor  
> lowered
> the voltage from 12v to 6v to reduce the ware and tear on, or  
> prolong the
> life of the points in the distributor (Old School).  Every time the  
> points
> just open and just close they would ark ever so slightly causing  
> the pitting
> you would see on them.  Less voltage less pitting longer life!  The  
> new
> electronic units (New School) have no points and are designed to  
> work on 12v
> so lower voltage input using the ballast resistor (Old School), lowers
> output from your coil.  So, half the rated voltage into the coil  
> will yield
> only half of the rated output.  Now if you had problems with your  
> system as
> I believe you found, potentially you might have had less than 6v to  
> your
> coil at idle having it operate at the bottom end of its operating  
> capacity
> or minimum voltage it needs to operate, causing the missing you  
> experianced!
>  I hope this helps?
>
>         
>  Herb
>
> 1956 Plymouth Belvedere 361
> 1959 Coronet 326 Poly
> 1963 Fury 2D/HT 6.1
> 1963 Sport Fury Convertible 361
> 1970 Challenger RT 440
> 1999 Durango SLT 5.9
> 2006 300-C Heritage 5.7
> 2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1
> St. Louis, MO.
>
> http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo42009.html
>
>
>
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: laborboy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Date: 7/20/2009 8:15:23 AM
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: RE: new electronic distributor problems
>
> What purpose does the ballast resistor serve?
>
> Herb wrote:
> > Yes, bypass it!  Your system needs 10 or11v to operate to it's full
> > potential and it is only getting 6 or 7v through the ballast  
> > resister.
> > I am
> > sure you will see a difference.
> >
> >         
> >  Herb
> >
> > 1956 Plymouth Belvedere 361
> > 1959 Coronet 326 Poly
> > 1963 Fury 2D/HT 6.1
> > 1963 Sport Fury Convertible 361
> > 1970 Challenger RT 440
> > 1999 Durango SLT 5.9
> > 2006 300-C Heritage 5.7
> > 2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1
> > St. Louis, MO.
> >
> > http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo42009.html
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -------Original Message-------
> >
> > From: laborboy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > Date: 07/19/09 17:59:52
> > To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> > Subject: RE: new electronic distributor problems
> >
> > I did not bypass my ballast resistor--are you recommending that?
> >   Thank you for the guidance and advice.
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.

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