To troubleshoot fully * put an analog voltmeter on + dc power at gauge , leave on floor if it jumps when gauge does , trace back the power lead . if ok , steady 12 , move the analog meter + lead to gauge terminal on back of gauge .
If wire or the sensor itself opens up it will jump full scale to 12 , (?= open circuit to gauge then — it grounds variably through the sender ) Normal reading is somewhere in middle . If v meter drops to zero (and gauge goes to hot) , the wire is shorting to ground somewhere . If meter drops to zero and gauge goes to C , there is an intermittent open in the gauge itself , no power is coming out to sender .
To separate wire issues from the sender , repeat same test by extending a wire from right at sender , or just unplug sender , gauge should stay on C , drive around ( if it jumps to H , you have a wire short ) Then short wire to ground solidly with clip lead, gauge should stay on H . If that happens , wire and gauge is ok , ( * can do this first too , —- might save time ) ; success on this indicates sender is bad ( loose connection inside ? ) Beware —- senders sold to fit our cars are usually wrong ohms , some kind of Chinese universal . Scale will be off . Like gas tank units . Try to pull one off a junk motor or junkyard . any 56-59 mopar
probably same .
Sometimes needle mechanically sticks or goes too far toward C ( or E) ( need to add a stop) and it sticks there , no electric issue existed at all . Go over a bump you look down today it is working ! This really baffled me once , i think mr Meritt wrote that up in tech .
hope this helps ..
John G
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