Re: [Chrysler300] 300 convertible top troubles

["Miklas" <ldmiklas@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

I posted quite a while back that I purchased a top motor and cylinders from 
an 86 (I think) Sebring. The "recycling yard" pulled the motor, cylinders 
and lines all intact so there wasn't even any leakage. Cost was $100.00 
which was pretty reasonable considering one cylinder new is more than that. 
It even came with the nylon bushings, pins and clips, which it is always 
great to have extras of those.   I used the assembly  on a 300L  and later I 
purchased a second assembly and used it  on a 70 Barracuda. The Sebring 
lines were a little short for both cars so I re-used the original lines from 
the respective cars. Everything interchanged nicely, except the resevoir on 
the late model motor had a rubber plug in the fill hole instead of a 
threaded plug , so I swapped out the resevoirs for the earlier ones.

I seem to recall that the Sebring cylinders were much shorter that the ones 
on my 62 300, so I'm not sure you would get the travel required. The Sebring 
cylinders were DEFINITELY different than those on a  300C, but the motor 
looked identical for all years, even the electrical plug was the same I seem 
to recall. The 300C had a much larger resevoir than the later years but it 
appeared that the 300C resevoir could be retrofitted to the new motor 
easily.

If my earlier post could be called up, I think I gave the cylinder 
measurements for the 300L, 300H and the 300C. I'm not sure how to call up an 
old post. I also learned that the length of the cylinders also has something 
to do with the shape of the inner fender panels - an A-body and an E-body 
cylinder are different, but they both function on either car in terms of 
roof travel; the difference is that one will interfere with the wheelhouse 
sheetmetal if installed on the wrong car.

In addition to oiling/greasing all the pivot points in the top mechanism, 
the nylon inserts in the cylinder mounts need to be greased as well. The 
cylinders actually "travel" as the top raises and lowers.

DISCLAIMER: My memory lately is all but useless it seems , so please double 
check your application and don't rely solely on what I've said and already 
forgotten !

Jeff Miklas


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <RWestra@xxxxxxx>
To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 3:46 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] 300 convertible top troubles


>I need help rejuvenating my H convertible top lift mechanism.
>
> The top has been sluggish for some time.  However, it has been getting
> worse and yesterday at a car show it nearly did not go up.
>
> Today I removed the  pump/motor assembly and disassembled  it.  It was
> filthy.  The brushes were stuck, the commutator was black  and the 
> armature
> cavity was full of debris.  I cleaned it all up, sanded  the armature, 
> freed the
> brushes and reassembled it.  I tested the motor  before reinstalling it 
> and
> it ran fast and free.
>
> However, when I  reinstalled it the top worked the same.  It will go up 
> but
> is very  slow.  The motor seems to pull down and run slowly.  It seems the
> pressure is slowing the motor down.  Going down is somewhat better but is
> still very sluggish.  My L top goes up and down 5 times faster.
>
> The cylinders do not leak and the mechanism seems to be free, although it
> is difficult to tell.  I have owned the car for 30 years and have done
> nothing to the top mechanism or the motor assembly.
>
> Anyone have experienced this trouble before?  Do cylinders get sticky  and
> provide excessive drag on the mechanism?   Do the pivot points get  dirty
> and sticky?   What do you recommend?
>
> I seem to remember someone saying that the current cylinders for the
> LeBaron or the Sebring will interchange with the cylinders of the early 
> 300's.
> Is this the case?  Any part numbers?
>
> I know someone out there has the answer.  You always have in the  past.
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
>    Rolland  Westra
>
>    Rockford,  IL
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
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