>Also, it isn’t really fair to conclude that methodical use of
modern metal treatments and coatings will fare much better than what was
originally used unless you are subjecting the vehicle to the same punishing
environments that many of these cars saw daily.
These modern metal treatments have been tested under
conditions far worse than what our cars would be exposed to, even as daily
drivers in the northeast or Des Moines, IA. I've reviewed the tests, which were
done back a few decades ago by high-quality restoration publications, such as
Skinned Knuckles or Classic Auto Restorer. I'm satisfied with the results of
their tests and of my own tests on rusty areas of my truck, which sits
outside all year long in the northeast.
Cars were built to a price point that the vehicle's
market segment can afford, and still make the company a good profit. So
compromises were made. When we restore our cars, we don't have those
constraints. So we can overbuild our cars to our
satisfaction.
Ron
Just a comment on the subject of vehicle engineering and metal prep.
I’m a natural skeptic so I’ve always assumed that whenever I see a product that
could easily have been improved at a very low cost, it was by design. Am I way
off base thinking that not fully dipping a fender or adding a shield could well
have been a conscious decision?
These cars were never designed to last very long and in most cases didn’t.
Most of the classic cars we enjoy have undergone extensive reconstruction to
save them from decay, much of which could have been avoided with improved
design.
Also, it isn’t really fair to conclude that methodical use of modern metal
treatments and coatings will fair much better than what was originally used
unless you are subjecting the vehicle to the same punishing environments that
many of these cars saw daily.
Ryan Hill
Well, if you've ever seen, and tried to remove, the undercoating
from the directly-exposed inner fenders of a late 50s Mopar, you see that the
undercoating did its job. Those inner fenders would have been swiss cheese
without it. So if that kind of protection had been applied right up to the
inner edge of the eyebrows, it would have likely been a non-issue. But they
cheaped out and it cost them.
When I did my 58 Plymouth, the fenders were media blasted inside
and out. Then a thick layer of Bill Hirsh Miracle Paint (similar to
POR-15) was applied to the problem areas of the fender (inner eyebrows,
lower rear part of the fender where the reinforcement brace is welded) as a
barrier coat, then the entire fender was epoxy primed. Twenty years later, no
problems. Same procedure for the inner quarters and rear wheel well openings,
BTW.
Ron
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